Veterinary X-Ray

Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Diagnosing Lameness in Horses

Lameness is one of the most common problems requiring vet consultation. Diagnosing the cause can be difficult, time-consuming and frustrating. Veterinarians develop their own protocols in assessing lameness but the steps shown give an indication of the process.

Step 1 Review Medical History

The vet will ask you questions relating to past and present difficulties of your horse. He or she will also ask about exercise or work requirements and any other relevant information.

Step 2 At-Rest Appraisal

In a visual appraisal at rest, the vet will study symmetry, balance, and weight- bearing and look for any noticeable injury or stress.

Step 3 Motion Appraisal

Your veterinarian will watch the horse walk and trot and, in some cases, lunge Observing the horse from the front, back, and side views, the veterinarian will note any deviation in gait.

Step 4 Hands-On Evaluation

The veterinarian will run hands over the horse, checking muscles, joints, bones and tendons for any evidence of heat, swelling or any other physical abnormalities. Pulses in the blood vessels of a lower limb frequently yields useful information about infections or inflammation.

Step 5 Hoof/Joint Test

Hoof examination includes a careful visual inspection of the bearing surface of the foot when it is picked up.

Step 6 Flexion Exam

This test helps the vet to assess the encapsulated surrounding joints along with the associated ligaments, tendons and bone ends. The limb is placed in a flexed position for a short period and then released. As the horse trots away the vet watches for signs of increased lameness.

Step 7 Lunging

Often, the vet will want to watch the horse being lunged in a circle on firm ground. This generally puts more pressure on the inside leg (back or front) and makes a subtle problem more obvious.

Step 8 Nerve Blocks

Local anesthetic can be used to help isolate the area of lameness by numbing the region. They allow the vet to focus expensive imaging tests in the affected area.

Step 9 Imaging Tests

Once the source of the pain has been identified, a range of imaging techniques may be used to further localize the cause. These include ultrasound scans and X-rays. In difficult-to-diagnose or high-value cases, bone scans, MRI (Magnetic Resonance Imaging) and Scintigraphy may be used.

Digital ultrasound uses waves to view soft tissues such as muscle, tendons and ligaments; inflammation and/or tears can contribute to a problem.

Digital radiography allows for x-ray evaluation of specific trouble areas such as joints of the limb or neck. High quality images appear on a screen, helping your vet find smaller, subtle lesions that cause discomfort to the animal.

MRIs use strong magnets and, with the aid of computers, allow the vet to divide the horse's body into very thin slices or planes to see lesions that cannot be seen in any other way. MRIs are especially helpful in examining the horse's feet.

Nuclear Scintigraphy, is the process by which a radiopharmaceutical is injected into the horse's vein, followed by photography that detects the pharmaceutical in the horse's tissue. The procedure can often find inflammation on the cellular level not yet "large" enough to be seen with an x-ray. This procedure is extremely helpful in finding stress fractures and small bone bruises.

Your veterinarian's goal is to help you with the health and fitness of your horse. Once a diagnosis is made, treatment can be aimed at correcting the problem, so the horse can get back to the ring, the track or his or her job.

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This blog is brought to you by Diagnostic Imaging Systems. Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. (DIS) has been providing Quality Imaging products since 1983. The company combines industry knowledge with an understanding of the veterinary practice. For more information, go to Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. website at: www.vetxray.com

All content provided on this blog is for informational purposes only. The owner of this blog makes no representations as to the accuracy or completeness of any information on this site or found by following any link on this site. The owner will not be liable for any errors or omissions in this information nor for the availability of this information. The owner will not be liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from the display or use of this information. These terms and conditions of use are subject to change at any time and without notice.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Is a Raw Food Diet Right For Your Dog?

This is the first of a two-part series

What Exactly is a BARF Diet?
The BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food' or 'Bones And Raw Food') is thought to be close to what your dog would eat in the wild. It's based around fresh-killed beef, chicken, rabbit, duck, fish, organ meat, etc. Raw pork is not recommended because it can contain the virus which causes a life-threatening disease called 'pseudorabies'. Any meat used in a raw food diet for dogs should be human-grade, preferably organic, and free from any artificial additives, preservatives, etc.

Whole eggs (including the shells), yogurt, cottage cheese and even some nuts can be given; plus a healthy serving of finely ground or juiced raw fresh fruit and vegetables. Grains aren't necessary, but if you want to add some type of grain, try oats or brown rice.

The Benefits of Raw Dog Food
There certainly seem to be many good reasons to consider a raw diet for dogs - and although the majority of them are to the dogs' benefit, there are some 'pluses' for you too!
Some of the most common benefits include:

A raw food diet for dogs may help to alleviate all sorts of health problems including allergies, IBS, arthritis, skin conditions, parasites, ear infections, obesity and more
It strengthens a dog's immune function, lessening the possibility of over-vaccination and other immunity system issues
Chewing bones keeps your dogs teeth clean and strong
It's an "evolutionary appropriate" diet, meaning the canine digestive system was specifically designed for this type of diet. It stands to reason that BARF provides maximum nutritional benefit
Stools that are less frequent and less smelly
Reduced obesity, and more controlled growth rate in puppies/adolescent dogs
Studies have indicated that this type of diet actually increases a dog's lifespan
If you live near a cooperative butcher or market, BARF may be less expensive than commercial food
Your dog likes it!

Drawbacks of a Raw Food Diet for Dogs
Of course there are two sides to every coin, and there are drawbacks associated with feeding a raw dog food diet.
Some of the more common ones include:

There is a risk of bacterial illness such as e-coli and salmonella, that could affect you and/or your dog. Obviously, it's important to follow good kitchen hygiene and wash your hands, utensils and work surfaces thoroughly
Preparing a raw dog food recipe for dogs can be messy, time-consuming and inconvenient if you're traveling, or have a busy schedule
It can be difficult to find the right raw meat components. If you have a local butcher, chicken processing plant, or grocery store that will work with you to provide bones, carcasses and such--it will be much easier.
There's a learning curve involved--for the dog owner that is!
Many veterinarians in the US tend to discourage the raw diet

Bear in mind that puppies have very specific nutritional needs. Raw diets are fine for an adult dog; it is usually not recommended for the first year because it is tricky to meet puppy demands. Start with premium commercial and make the switch at maturity.

Speak with your vet if you have any questions about your puppy's, or dog's, diet.

Next month: Part II--Tips on Feeding Your Dog a Raw Diet

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This blog is brought to you by Diagnostic Imaging Systems. Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. (DIS) has been providing Quality Imaging products since 1983. The company combines industry knowledge with an understanding of the veterinary practice. For more information, go to Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. website at: www.vetxray.com

All content provided on this blog is for informational purposes only. The owner of this blog makes no representations as to the accuracy or completeness of any information on this site or found by following any link on this site. The owner will not be liable for any errors or omissions in this information nor for the availability of this information. The owner will not be liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from the display or use of this information. These terms and conditions of use are subject to change at any time and without notice.

Friday, June 17, 2016

Beating Boredom- Your Cat & Dog Will Thank You

Let’s face facts–you’re a busy person. Work, family, friends…you’re spread pretty thin. Many pet owners believe that they don’t spend enough time with their pets. Fido and Fluffy get bored; you want to make things right but don’t know how to fix the problem. If your cat or dog is left alone all day every day, it’s a recipe for the blahs. Boredom can lead to depression as well as behavioral problems such as chewing, barking, spraying, etc. Because pets are not active when they are bored, boredom also commonly leads to obesity. So what can the busy pet parent do to help remedy this all-too-common situation?

If money isn’t an obstacle, your dog will benefit from a hired dog-walker. It’s been common in cities for years, and has now made its way to the suburbs. Obviously, the advantage is exercise, but it’s also a great way for your pooch to make new friends and visit unexplored locations Many dog walking services offer pet sitting services as well. It needn’t be overnight; pet sitters can spend 30 minutes as a play-date companion for your cat. It will break up your cat’s day and make it feel better. If this type of service is beyond your budget, you can always ask a neighbor (it’s a great first job for responsible tweens/teens) to come in and spend some time with your cat or dog.

Depending on your particular dog or cat, , you can always choose to add to the pet family. Normally, cats will tolerate a new cat after a period of adjustment. Post-adjustment, the cats usually spend time with each other and interact with each other…boredom be gone! Ask your vet about the best way to introduce a new cat into your home. In terms of dogs, most dogs also get along with new dogs after a period of adjustment, but some do not. Test the reaction of the old dog with the new dog on neutral ground. Again it’s advisable to ask your vet on how best to introduce the dogs.
Some pet owners have had success with DVDs created especially for cats and dogs. Seems crazy, but pets love them! Some of the DVDs loop, so they play over…and over…and over. Check online or at your local pet store to see what’s available. Additional options are the radio and television. We’ve heard good talk radio and classical music are the channels of choice!

Our days seem to get more and more busy, but we mustn’t forget about our animals. Much like us, they suffer when they feel neglected. After all, we’ve asked them into our homes for companionship…it’s only right that we make their lives full and happy.

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This blog is brought to you by Diagnostic Imaging Systems. Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. (DIS) has been providing Quality Imaging products since 1983. The company combines industry knowledge with an understanding of the veterinary practice. For more information, go to Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. website at: www.vetxray.com

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Hunting Dog Training... School Is Open

Whether it's big game or small, duck or deer, your dog needs to be skilled in the art of hunting. Before you begin hunting dog training, there are some basics required for success. Your dog's education can begin when your pup is around six months old, introducing whistles, check cords and birds as well as a few simple commands. The goal is to equip the dog for success while ensuring the safety of your dog during a hunt.

Gunfire is an artificial invasion in the field. If you try to rush this part of the training, the pup could become gun shy or nervous and jittery about loud noises. The goal is to introduce the dog to the sounds of gunfire in small and consistent doses, creating positive pairings. This can be a lengthy process, and is more than firing a gun followed by a little treat. Take the time to carefully reconcile the pup to these sounds.

At around ten months old, you will need to move on to field work, accustoming the animal to whistles and trainer commands. The goal here is to develop pointing instincts as well as the patience that is so critical during the actual hunt.

Now that your puppy/dog has completed basic training, he/she must remain steadfast to wing and shot. Commands such as "hold" must be heeded and now is the time for exposure to real-world hunting situations. Once completed, the dog will have learned to work outside and off-leash. This includes the Retrieve (Deliver) to Hand command; which is teaching the dog to bring back the prey without damaging it. For the dog that doesn't retrieve to hand, spend time reinforcing the "Here" command. In addition, this stage of the training can involve teaching the dog to respect another dog’s point as well as to resist the urge to flush out birds.

Any dog with parents that were hunting dogs will naturally be inclined to hunt, and will likely have abilities that will help it in its training. An obvious bonus to hunting dog training is that it will teach your dog basic skills beyond normal obedience. Come, Sit, Stay are a bonus of this specialized training. It is also not unusual for the hunting dog training routine to require trips into the field to acclimate the dog to the full effect of a real situation. Don't forget...your dog should be trained in a variety of seasons and a variety of weather conditions in hunting a variety of game.

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Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Oh, No...Not Again! When Cat Vomiting Is More Than A Hairball

Kittens and cats. We rescue them, buy them, and spoil them. We love everything about them. Well, maybe not everything. There's not a cat lover alive who hasn't experienced the joy of cleaning feline vomit from some unsuitable location.

Most cat guardians and many veterinarians probably consider regular vomiting of food, bile or hairballs “normal” for a cat. The truth is, it may not be normal, especially if the vomiting is frequent.

While it is true that most cats will vomit occasionally as a result of ingested hair, it should not be happening often. Sure, hairballs may result in vomiting; even choking or gagging. If your cat is vomiting every couple of months but is otherwise healthy, it's probably not a big deal.. However, if your cat is vomiting several times a week, there may be something much more serious happening; there are many other conditions that may cause similar symptoms.

If you believe that hairballs are to blame for your cat’s vomiting, you need to take action to decrease the amount of hair your cat is able to ingest. Frequent and thorough grooming to remove loose hair is probably the best course of action. After all, if there's no loose hair in your cat's coat, there's less hair to swallow. You can find deshedding tools at any pet site or store; and they really work!

A trip to your veterinarian for an examination may be in order, especially if the vomiting continues or if you notice additional symptoms, such as diarrhea, weight loss, or change in appetite.

A recent study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association examined the medical records of 100 cats suffering chronic vomiting, chronic diarrhea, weight loss, or a combination. Abdominal ultrasonography combined with laparoscopy and biopsies of the small bowel were used to aid in diagnosis for these cats.

The study concluded: “Results suggested that cats with clinical signs of chronic small bowel disease should undergo detailed diagnostic testing because they are likely to have clinically important, diagnosable, treatable disease. Clinical signs of small bowel disease, especially weight loss and chronic or recurrent vomiting, are extremely common in cats. These signs should not be considered a normal condition and should not be ignored, regardless of common explanations given by owners, and cats with these signs should undergo appropriate diagnostic testing.”

There are several lessons we can learn from this important study:

v Take every opportunity to weigh your cat when at the vet. Weight loss was the most common sign of disease, sometimes without vomiting or diarrhea^.

v An ultrasound, which is non-invasive, should be used to measure the thickness of the small intestine of cats presenting with vomiting, diarrhea and/or weight loss. If the bowel is abnormal, surgical biopsies should be taken and sent to the lab for analysis.

v Old age should not be a reason to decline anesthesia and surgery. Don't delay the treatment suggested.

v Vomiting more than twice a month is a reason to go to your family veterinarian, and it should always be investigated.

Questions to ask the veterinarian

ü If your cat vomits more often than twice a month, ask your veterinarian what can be done--not just to prevent vomiting, but to find a cause.

ü We found the cause. What's the treatment?

ü What is the prognosis for the cat?

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Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Behavioral Problems in Horses-- Part III

This is the third and final installment of a multi-part series outlining common equine behavior problems.

Unfortunately many horses have behavior problems - most often created by poor and inconsistent handling or physical abuse. Time and patience are required to correct these behavioral problems, and sometimes the problems cannot be corrected and instead must be managed. Following are a number of topics that fall under the category of Behavioral Eating Disorders.

EATING DISORDERS
Coprophagia
Eating feces is mainly seen in foals during the first 8 wk of life. Foals usually consume the fresh feces of their mothers. The behavior may also provide vitamin B and introduce normal intestinal flora. In adults, the behavior is mainly associated with a low-roughage diet.
Obesity

Decreased exercise and overfeeding a highly concentrated diet may lead to obesity. On pasture, horses spend about 8–12 hours grazing while moving from place to place; confined horses spend about 3–4 hours. Consider increasing exercise, social contact, and roughage to help maintain appropriate body weight.

Anorexia
Horses are herd animals. Changes in their socialization can lead to stress which can increase the chance of anorexia. Appropriate weaning of foals is also important to prevent anorexia. If previously attacked, submissive horses may not eat near aggressive horses. if they have previously been attacked. Management and/or correction should be directed toward the underlying problem. Increasing social contact and separating affected animals from aggressive horses can help.

FOAL REJECTION
There are three types of foal rejection:
1. avoidance—the mare will not attack the foal but will not allow suckling
2. intolerance of suckling, which may be due to a painful udder, and
3. aggression toward the foal, in which mares exhibit stallion-like behavior and may kick and bite the foal.

NOTE: Some mares paw at the foal to stimulate them to stand, and this should be differentiated from aggression.

The most important aspect of treatment is to protect the foal. In extreme cases, the foal should be supplied with colostrum within the first 12 hours and then bottle fed or cross-nursed. Restraining a primiparous (bearing young for the first time) mare and letting the foal suckle may teach the mare that nursing is pleasurable and encourage her to let the foal nurse without restraint. A quiet environment with minimal disturbance is critical to successful nursing. Any evidence of mastitis should be remedied. For an aggressive mare, appropriate restraints should be considered. Feeding the mare treats during nursing can help to desensitize her. In some cases, stimulating maternal behavior by separating the mare from the foal or faking a threat to the foal (e.g., other horses, dogs) can help. Medications may help; however, these drugs can enter the milk and affect the foal.
Behavioral problems are often the tip of the iceberg. Resolving these problems requires getting to the root cause, and addressing the whys and wherefores. Understanding behavior and behavior modification is a skill that every horse owner should want to develop. The results are well worth the effort.

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This blog is brought to you by Diagnostic Imaging Systems. Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. (DIS) has been providing Quality Imaging products since 1983. The company combines industry knowledge with an understanding of the veterinary practice. For more information, go to Diagnostic Imaging Systems, Inc. website at: www.vetxray.com
All content provided on this blog is for informational purposes only. The owner of this blog makes no representations as to the accuracy or completeness of any information on this site or found by following any link on this site. The owner will not be liable for any errors or omissions in this information nor for the availability of this information. The owner will not be liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from the display or use of this information. These terms and conditions of use are subject to change at any time and without notice.

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

S is for Snake

Looking for a pet that doesn't cramp your style? No walks, no litter box, no barking in the middle of the night? Consider a snake to be your sidekick. Most first time snake shoppers will simply pick out the one that appeals to them the most, visually. Looks are important, but there are other factors to be considered when deciding which may be the best for you.

Simply put, here are our 5 favorites for the first-time pet owner:

Ø Corn Snake

Ø California Kingsnake

Ø Rosy Boa

Ø Gopher Snake

Ø Ball Python

Let's examine some important factors: cost, size, health, temperament, feeding issues, color and breeding success. Some of these factors, (i.e. cost and size) may be very important to you, while others (breeding success and color morphs) may not matter at all.

Cost – Depending on the species, gender, color and age of your pet, you can expect to pay anywhere from $10 to $100 for our Top 5 picks. The more colorful the snake, the more it will cost. $10-$100 is the cost of the snake only! Be prepared to spend more on an appropriate container, bedding, heat source, places to hide, etc. We did a little research and discovered starter kits in the $30-$40 range.

Size – There is no good size or bad size of snake, just make sure to purchase one that will fit your preference as an adult.

Health – Two factors come into play here: 1--you provide all necessary requirements and, 2--you drop the ball once in a while. Simply put, some snakes are easier to care for, and can handle wider swings of consistency than others. If you don't think you can provide your pet with the best, both you and the snake would be better off apart. However, a hardy pet will be more likely to survive, should you temporarily lose focus.

Temperament –Some snake species are gentle and easygoing; others can be fearful and fussy. Regular handling of your pet will help it become “civilized” but, in the beginning, be prepared for the occasional attempt to bite, escape or relieve themselves while being held. Do your research up-front when picking a snake that will best meet your needs.

Feeding issues – Just like people, snakes demonstrate different eating habits. Maybe you have the big eater, who think s that every time they see you, the mouth opens and it's dinner time. Or maybe you've got the "gourmet" who stops eating altogether for a period of time. Most of these issues resolve over time...don't panic!

Colors – This one is pretty self-explanatory. Using the above Top 5 list, we'd suggest Corn Snakes and Ball Pythons for the greatest variety. This factor may be important if you plan to breed your snakes at a later date.

Breeding success – Most of us buy a pet for companionship, but some of us have bigger plans. Breeding can be a tough, especially if you have snakes that would rather eat each other than mate. Perhaps you have snakes that simply aren't interested. Or breeding has produced eggs and now the babies won't eat! We said it before and we'll keep saying it...Do The Research. In this case, find the snake type that's noted for easy breeding.

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